Hooded Active Jacket, Oversized, Calfskin

This jacket carries over the formal beauty of the American riders jacket while rebuilding it for the scale of an Asian body.
Conventional Western sizing tends to run long in the body, so that the visual proportion between shoulder width and chest does not resolve. Over several rounds of prototypes we adjusted the shoulder line, the width through the body, and the length. The visual centre of gravity is brought towards the waist, drawing a refined vertical line through the whole silhouette.
What mattered most was a pattern balance that could hold up against the thickness and weight of the material. Grade A calfskin has a fine, dense fibre and excellent durability, but the material itself carries presence. So by finely adjusting the sizing, the armhole, and the measurements around the collar, we turned the weight of the material into a sense of quality, in a construction that flatters the wearer's build naturally.
The ribbing at collar, cuffs, and hem is a spiral-patterned wool. Combining the rigidity of leather with the flexibility of wool expresses the riders jacket's characteristic silhouette while keeping it comfortable to wear.

The natural version is a considerable step forward from its predecessor in material terms.
Using grade A calfskin, finer and softer than ordinary cowhide, has improved comfort in wear considerably.
Introducing an eco-friendly light water-dye process has gone some way to overcoming the vulnerability of undyed leather to soiling. You can wear it straight away, and in normal wear it will not go conspicuously pale. As there is no extra coating on the surface, the oil works in over time and the colour shifts, an ageing to enjoy.
At 1.1–1.2 mm, the leather has a supple, springy hand much like horsehide while keeping the durability and abrasion resistance cowhide has by nature, the twin advantages that only a fine uncoated top-grain calfskin achieves.
Before sewing, the leather is beaten in wooden tubs to soften it. This process simulates everyday use, so it feels natural to wear from the very start.

Please note: because this material absorbs readily, rain may leave marks. It also soils comparatively easily with no coating layer, and may not suit wear in certain areas such as under the arms.

■ Materials by colour

• Black: outer leather: cowhide (calfskin, top grain); middle layer: 3M Thinsulate® Type M insulating fill (light, highly insulating); lining: custom SIMONS logo nylon twill; ribbing: wool (collar, cuffs, hem)

• Natural: outer leather: cowhide (calfskin, top grain / uncoated natural); middle layer: 3M Thinsulate® Type M insulating fill (light, highly insulating); lining: custom SIMONS logo nylon twill; ribbing: wool (collar, cuffs, hem). *Being an uncoated natural finish it takes water and dirt readily, but in return it deepens towards amber the more it is worn.

■ Sizes
S / M / L
For full measurements, see “Measurements” just below the size selector.
*Model wears size S (relaxed fit): height 178 cm (5'10") / weight approx. 73 kg (161 lb) / shoulder 47 cm (18.5 in) / chest 95 cm (37.4 in)
*This style runs large: S fits like a usual S–M, M like an L–XL, and L like a 2XL–3XL.

■ Country of origin
China

■ Care
• Take care to keep the leather away from rain and water. If it does get wet, blot the moisture off promptly with a dry cloth and let it dry naturally in a well-ventilated, shaded place.
• Store on a hanger that matches the shoulder width so the garment keeps its shape.
• Wipe dirt away gently with a dry, soft cloth, and condition with a leather cream as needed.
• Store away from direct sunlight, heat, and humidity.

■ About natural leather
• Because this is natural leather, creases, veining, scars, and uneven colour may be visible. These are the character of a natural material, not defects.
• Colour may fade, transfer, or change with age through wear.
• Every piece looks slightly different. Please order with this in mind.